Like Woman

My dining companion has been none other than Peter “Hoover” Harden of Hardens Guides. I had a preconceived notion of what a Wall Street junk bond analyst turned food writer would look like. He would look like Mr Creosote. In fact, I am happy to report that Peter is positively svelte, despite an extraordinary capacity to take on food. He even held me to an honourable draw at tennis, in torrid conditions, at The Park Tennis Club.

In the acclaimed Harden’s London Restaurants 2007 Guide that came out yesterday, the Scottish chef again claimed the title of top chef.

Restaurant prices across the board apparently rose by 4.1 per cent during the year, with the average cost of dinner for one in London being £36.82, compared with £35.79 last year.

But you have to look at the really pricey places to see what’s really going on. At restaurants like Blakes, Le Gavroche, Sketch and Umu, a standard meal accompanied by the cheapest plonk (although everyone orders the second cheapest) is creeping up past the three figure mark.

I think I may detect a little understandable favouritism to the canon of former Conran restaurants that now are owned by the D&D group. I guess this is understandable as Peter Prescott worked with with Terence on building up this estimable empire so clearly would have a deep affection for each of their former charges. I’m not entirely sure what Gordon Ramsay and all his acolytes have done to them but they seem to want to commit to the merest and at best faintly dismissive entries like the “if you want to eat carpaccio of gherkin, (Petrus) is the place to do so” or “Gordon Ramsay has made (Claridge’s) a place for footballers and their wives of girl/boyfriends. Over decorated food, too complex ann service rather too unctuous of everything in a place where elegant simplicity once ruled”. Miaow, I’d love to know what Gordon did to upset Sir Terrence? Angela Hartnett and the Connaught doesn’t even get an entry though there is a slightly derogatory mention in the foreward. Poor Angela, too harsh I think! Boxwood Café and Maze get no mention at all either.